Going to Paris

Sitting in our kitchen. It’s 5.30 in the morning (which might also explain some of the misspellings below…). I have got up to catch the early morning flight to Paris. We are 7 students going there to represent the university of St. Gallen in a case competition. ‘The double’ (www.thedouble.org) it’s called. It will be a refreshing break from sitting at home studying. In the last 7 days we have had a break from classes and I have been writing a bit on various papers that need to be handed in. It will be nice to see some people for a change.

They have a nice program installed for us. A good mix of being serious and relaxing with dinners, social activities and stuff. I’m looking very much forward to this experience. Oh, and did I mention that it’s the first time I’m going to Paris…;o)

Take care here from Switzerland / France.

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“Yes they could”

A bit americanified, but nonetheless well deserved.

And in the words of Mr. McCain:

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Responsible citizenship

During the next couple of hours the world will be holding its breath “watching, waiting and hoping” as a good friend briefly expressed it on Facebook a couple of minutes ago. The election, that seals the next four years of US presidency, has drawn an interestingly high amount of attention from the rest of the world, seemingly and implicit acknowledging that US politics has a significant impact on the rest of world. The current credit-crisis is a good example of the interconnectedness of the world, and especially how US market and regulation can indirectly cause world-wide turbulence. The financial markets have during the day shown high levels of volatility reacting to the interconnectedness, and the European and Asian markets will most likely wake up tomorrow giving fast and frugal judgment to the outcome of the events of the election night. We are interconnected, and the cross-border dependence will only increase in the future. The world knows this. But is the average American voter also aware of this?

Back in 1962 Stan Lee (the writer who gave life to the comic book superhero Spider-Man) wrote “With great power, comes great responsibility”.  The corny-“ness” factor set aside for a moment, this reverbs through current thoughts on business behaviour and has done so for a decade or so. Corporations are slowly realising that they need to take more than just their owners into consideration in decision making, as their actions impact more than just the wallet of their investors.  These corporations are beginning to realise that driving a sustainable business by also being environmental and social aware is demanded from the world around them, including, but not limited to, their customers and the society.

Now the question that arises is whether these customers and the society are aware that responsibility is not only a subject for corporate agendas? As with all political campaigns, the promises and discussions in the US election campaign has evolved around the citizens’ desires and needs, with only a few squeaks of the Super Power’s impact on its environment surfacing. The subject might seem irrelevant, awkward or misplaced in a presidential campaign, but nonetheless seems to signal that there are fewer votes in general responsibility for the surrounding world. Provoking, yes. Speculative, maybe. But it’s is interesting that responsibility only seems like something we impose on others, and not something we strive to achieve in a broader sense.

Personally I hold my breath for the US to go in front and make a responsible choice today. At least by getting out to vote.

My thoughts to all those @ home!

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Unwanted residents, hiking and how to buy cleaning powder

The temperature is dropping in St. Gallen and both people and insects are retreating to the warmth and quaintness of indoor spaces. The biggest impact on our small WG (Wohngemeinschaft ~houseshare) is the sudden siege of our bathroom. Not by narcissistic men or nose-powdering ladies, but by wasps. Placed in a corner, the window of our bathroom is just opposite the next-door building, where, in the wooden frame around one of the windows, a colony of wasps has taken up residency. Now, apparently, they have decided to expand their territory.
They have actually developed quite a genius strategy. At night, when we leave the window slightly open, they sneak in, which give them first dibs on the bathroom in the mornings. Normally one would expect humans as well as insects to respect that other people also need the use of the bathroom in the mornings, but these wasps are not that very polite. It has now happened twice, and we decided to throw them out of the apartment if they continually won’t follow house rules. Unfortunately they respond unbelievably bad to logical reasoning. Therefore Mark called a wasp-bouncer today, who fixed the problem with gas. The only remnant of wasps in the bathroom is now the smell embedded in our clothes.
Sunday I had a nice break from studying, going on a hike on Säntis, a mountain in the pre-alps just south-west of St. Gallen. The weather was perfectly clear. We went there around 15 CEMS people, starting out at 10 o’clock from the bottom and hiking our way up to the summit. It was an amazing 3½ hours hike. I was immediately reminded of the fantastic trip Nina, Erik and I had the weekend before and the views of the Jungfraujoch glacier, we this Sunday saw in the distance from the summit of Säntis.
It was a nice break from studying. It seems that group presentations have become a fashion element in the CEMS courses in the university. In the 4 courses I have started on, we have been put into 5 different groups (none of which are identical). It is a very exciting challenge to work in that many groups, but also a bit of a planning circus. I have begun my German studies as well. I decided to start out by buying an interactive piece of software, and am currently doing approximately one hour of German lessons per day. This works great, although I would probably need some real life discussions soon to stay on the learning curve.
Speaking of learning curves, I went shopping in one of the supermarkets yesterday. Before leaving the apartment I took a mental note of the cleaning powder for the dish-washer – we had run out, so I thought I might buy some while being at the store anyway. As with other purchases this was of course also bound to some criteria: It should be soap, it should be for a dishwasher, it should be in the form of tablets so you won’t have to dose it by spoon, and it should be of a certain brand. “Got it”, I thought and went down to the store. Going through these very neat criteria, most of which would seem pretty obvious, it probably comes as a surprise that what I came back with was actually calcium carbonate remover, for laundry mats, in powder form. I didn’t even get the brand right (although the packaging actually do look a bit alike). Since this didn’t really dawn on any of us until today, we can honestly say that dishes do get clean in the dishwasher using only calcium carbonate remover. The task of buying cleaning powder has now been delegated to one of my roommates.
All for now – life is good! I miss you all.

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Pictures from Filzbach

A clever soul has collected pictures from our trip to Filzbach, and posted them on the web. For your convenience please visit her Picasa Webalbum.

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The case of sustainability

It’s raining. I’m sitting in my room looking out the window and down on one of the buildings in the yard a couple of storeys below. The church bells have stopped ringing, and the only sound left is the dripping of rain and the splashing of water from the drainpipes. Maybe St. Gallen hasn’t really awoken yet or maybe this is just the ordinary silence of Sunday mornings.

Exactly a week ago, around this time last Sunday, I met up with a group of other CEMS people waiting for the bus to Filzbach. We were going on a 6 day seminar as a part of the CEMS programme. The bus took off from the main station in St. Gallen heading in the direction of our first destination, the Hydropower plant near Lake Garichte.

The subject of the seminar was sustainability and corporate strategy, with primary focus on the future energy and climate challenges. This is somewhat outside my field of expertise. The programme for the week was ambitious, consisting of a combination of company visits, lectures with leading professors within the field of sustainability from different European universities, company presentations by Shell, Vestas and Novo Nordisk, break-out sessions, and group presentations. The seminar was run on a tight schedule with activities from 9 o’clock in the morning often ending late in the evening with dinners with corporate partners, which of course saw this as an opportunity to get in contact with potential new employees. It was 6 very intense days, getting to know new and interesting people and definitely a lot of food-for-thought.

The setting in Filzbach was amazing. For pictures please visit the website of Lihn where we stayed. The hotel was set on the side of a mountain looking down over the valley with the clear blue Lake Wallensee in the bottom encircled by the surrounding mountains. This place created a calm and almost tranquil mood with its clear view to the distant peaks in the west and thick layers of fog filling the valley in the early mornings, and thus creating a splendid offset for the day to come. It was as if nature had crept in under the floorboards and created the perfect framework for the seminar especially with its subject on environmental issues.

The subject on sustainability was very new to most of us. One of the wonders of the CEMS framework, the diversity across theoretical, practical and cultural backgrounds, really surfaced during this seminar. Sustainability has many components. Putting it simple it is the corporate challenge of balancing economical, environmental and social impact of your operations on the company’s physical and social surroundings. Of course this has many aspects. The primary focus of the seminar was that of environmental impacts on the climate with focus on the world production and consumption of energy. The diverse backgrounds amongst us - the participants - gave the seminar an edge, which, adding to the contributions from the competent lecturers and company representatives, both expanded my horizon greatly and made me realise the actual complexity and the real challenges this subject contains.

I think it was Thursday – right around the time where I was starting to catch a cold – we ran out of the somewhat standardised subjects of “Where do you come from?” and “Why did you choose to come to St. Gallen?” and the togetherness really began to emerge. With the many different origins and cultural backgrounds (from Sao Paulo to Russia and Italy to Norway) there were lots of interesting things to talk about – and so we did. I think most of us got a pretty good idea of each other. For me as a newcomer this was especially great.

With a short detour into Austria to see one of the largest producers of gondolas in the world (Doppelmayr), we headed back to St. Gallen Friday afternoon, just in time to have ice cream on the shore of Lake Constance (Bodensee) in the town of Rorshach. I was pretty beaten when I arrived back in the apartment around 19.30. It had been a long week, and I had been sneezing my way all afternoon. I should probably have stayed at home in stead of going out Friday evening.

All in all – the seminar proved a great way to begin the stay here in St. Gallen. Meeting people and getting the opportunity to flex the academic muscles – a warm up for the semester to come.

My calendar is lying open on the table besides the laptop. The language courses start next week together with a range of social events coordinated by the university buddy initiative. More new and interesting people to meet and the opportunity to really test my high-school German. It has stopped raining now. I have a “learning experience paper” to write. Should probably start reflecting a bit more on the seminar.

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Arrival

Leaving a somewhat cloudy Copenhagen with a funny taste of longing at the back of my throat has brought me to Zurich and further on to St. Gallen. After a couple of hours strolling around the beautifull city with its old buildings and high activity I reached the university set on the side of the hillsides - a natural wall of granite embracing the city giving it a fantastic atmosphere of old, new and Heidi-ho.

There is actually not much to tell. I met my two room-mates - Dani and Mark - which are both very nice guys. It has now occured to me how far away my german is, while I on the same time surprises myself by speaking longer coherent sentences. I look forward to getting used to swinging the old language sling and uncovering what else I might have stored away during the years in elementary and high-school.

All for now. Goodnight.

Br, Kasper

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Changing the guards

In 19 days Jakob is returning home from his long trip to Chile and 14 days later I leave for Switzerland. A lot of things have happened since we said our goodbyes some 7 moths ago. As you have probably read from Jakobs posts, he has experienced quite a lot. From one amazing sight to the next, new friends and new challenges. Back in Denmark I as well have experienced a lot of interesting things, but more of the mundane sort. And as with any other jurney, we have probably changed a bit the both of us. Exactly which changes Jakob has undergone during these past months, I can not comment, but I would be very surprised if he hasn’t undergone any.

Very small changes seem to generate contingent smaller changes in its immediate surroundings. Jakobs absence has changed us back home a bit, as my absence might as well. Changes like these doesn’t just occur - they fill the hole left by other changes and evolve in the direction we let them.

In many ways I look forward to my trip, aware that changes will occur in my absence. I do not fear these changes, but I am curious to see how they evolve. I leave both Nina and Erik, whom I will miss deeply along with the rest of my family and friends. They might all change a bit while I am away, but I am confident that these minor changes will all be good.

Changing of the guards is closing in - Jakob is returning and I am leaving. New changes are coming.

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A cultural day in Madrid!

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Arriving at Madrid at 1 o´clock this night was not as troublesome as we had expected. After a small detour with the metro we arrived at our hotel, found something to eat and were in bed by 3 o´clock.

Today has been very active. After an Andalucian style breakfast we went down to the Museo Nacional del Prado for some great views of spanish medieval and rennesance painters such as Goya and Velazguez - a very interesting experience. Amongst many exciting paintings we got to see the The Third of May, 1808: The Execution of the Defenders of Madrid“. Fantastic painting.

From here we went straight for the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, which contains modern paintings and of special interest to us a big collection of Miró, Dali and Picasso paintings and scultures. The museum closes at 14.30 on sundays (but as with the Museo Prado the entrance is free on sundays) and arriving not until 13 o´clock we were in a bit of a hurry. We went straight for the permanent collection and started exploring the Picasso and Miró exhibitions. After being dazzled by the horror and intensity of the famous “Guernica“, by Picasso, we went on to explore a painter that has caught Jakobs interest quite a bit: Dalí. He even got the chance to look at his favorite painting, but I´m sad to say that I don´t know which, and can therefore not tell you.

The rest of the afternoon has been used wandering the streets to get an impression of the city, which seems much nicer now compared to the impression we got last time, and in the park just relaxing.

Originally we should have met up with a good friend of mine, José, here in Madrid. Unfortunately it didn´t work out. I hope  to see you sometime in the future my friend and wish the best for you and all your loved ones until then.

Now we are going for something to eat. Tomorrow, after doing the last bit of shopping, we are heading back to Denmark, where we both long to see family and friends.

Hasta Luego!
Kasper

Posted in Excursions, Week4 |

The last night in Granada

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So, we have now reached the final night in Granada. Kasper and I did the last shopping after school, and we have actually reached the point where every store and shop have been searched.

As a last goodbye we invited Justo to dinner´and we met up at the cathedral around 21:15. We went out for some tapas and beers at various places and we have really grown accustomed to the spanish way of having many light dishes. Justo is a really nice guy, attentative and patient, and we have enjoyed his company. After a few tapas we decided to get a coffee and Justo let us to a plaza at the foot of the Alhambra. We had the view of Alhambra, a coffee and amazing company… a good way to spent the last evening.

Before saying goodnight to Justo, we had one of the amazing icecreams that Granada offers and strolled slowly back to the appartment.

Thank you for everything Justo, you have been an important part of our trip here. Give our best regards to Manolo.

Br.

Kasper & Jakob

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The final day in school…. continued

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Here follows the telling of Jakob and the finding of resacas (hang-over in spanish…. I am reading “The Lord of the Rings” - again)

Anyways…. after Kasper left us in The Irish Pub we stayed there fore a few more pints and when on to find another bar. Estela, who is the most beautiful teacher I have ever had, led the way and we (Estela, her brother, three german students from the school and I) ended up at a more local bar which is known for their Caipirinas, a brasillian drink. We had a few of those and at around 3 o’clock we went out in search for yet another place. As you properbly have figured out it is very normal that a night out can be compared to a pub crawl. A few drinks here, a few drinks there…. actually it’s a nice way to party because you always find yourself in a new place with new people. 

Well at this tme most of the smaller bars had closed and in the end we gave up and Estela invited us to her new apartment. A very homely and very big appartment, and the conversations went on till the morning. We listened to spanish music, talked and had fun but at a very cosy level (”tranquilo” as they say here). Anyways… the night ended at around 5 o’clok and I really enjoyed the last fiesta with some amazing people.   

Thank you all so much for the last four weeks. I hope to see some of you in the future and if not “BUENO SUERTE” to all of you.

Br.

Jakob

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The final day in school…

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Today was the last day in school. Even though the motivation might not have been as high this week as it has been a good week alltogether. We were moved up a nudge in levels in the beginning of the week. Jakob continued on with the more advanced stuff, while I decided to follow a lower graded course for this week getting the opportunity to to speak more of the language.

Yesterday we went out with some of the students and two of our teachers, Estela and Paz. We went to a small tapas-restaurant in the north-eastern part of Granada where we had a few drinks and some tapas and continued on to an Irish pub not far from the restaurant. I went home to the flat around 1 and Jakob continued on. Exactly where they went I have no idea, so you have to speak to Jakob about this. All-in-all a very nice evening, and good to finally get an opportunity to experience people from a more personal angle.

I didn’t get to say goodbye to all of you this afternoon after school, which nags me a bit. To those of you reading this: Thank you for a great 4 weeks!

Hasta futuro!

Br,
Kasper

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Tour de Andalucia IV: Jaén & Granada

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The last day we decided to be a bit cultural and go to the old Moorish town of Jaén. It’s relatively big and full of historical sites. Unfortunately, Monday is not a tourist day in Jaén and all the sites we wanted to visit were closed. However, Lonely Planet tells us there is an exquisite old castle and some restored Roman Baths, which we would have loved to see. Instead we found some lunch before we headed back to Granada. The afternoon was spent in the local outdoor swimming pool. Great to get a bit of sun and relax in the shade. 
We went back to Jakob and Kasper’s flat in the early evening and had a little break before dinner was consumed at the local Chinese restaurant, which offers a daily menu for only 5,5 Euro including a drink. Difficult to beat. Jakob had discovered a great ice-cream place the evening before and went for a nice walk around the fountains of Granada. It is a very beautiful city, at day or at night.

Tuesday was back-to-school-day for Kasper and I just had a few hours in Granada before I headed back to Malaga to drop the car off. The sales are great in Spain, and on top of the stuff I bought on my first day alone, when Kasper and Jakob were at school, Erik got a good bit of new clothes.

All in all it has been a fantastic little holiday. We can really recommend to get away from the touristy Costa del Sol and either head east for Costa del Tropical south of Malaga or even better – forget about the beach and go into the backroads and the mountains. The pace is slow, the roads small and winding and leads you to small villages where you feel surrounded by Spain and its olive grooves. Thank you for a great holiday, Kasper.

Posted in Excursions, Week3, Week4 |

Tour de Andalucia III: Almuñecar & Sarabriego

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Sunday morning we headed straight to the beach and enjoyed the sun for a few hours. It was great to get a swim in the ocean although the waves were rather big – actually so big the looped me roll over backwards. But none of us has much patience for a beach and just after noon we set of to get back in the mountains. Away from the masses and into the tranquillity we enjoyed the day before. I had managed to buy cheese and chorizo in a supermarket (though sign language) and we had a lunch break in the shade of an olive tree. After a few struggles with the directions we found the way to our pre-booked B&B in the village of Sabariego about 3 quarters of an hours drive north of Granada. Sabariego is not much more than a cluster of houses on the way into the mountains, but here, the British ex-pats Richard and Loulou have lived for four years and offers a nice little room to passer-bys for the great value of 25 euroes. Nice and cheap – if you are prepared to listen to their constant talk about how it is to live in Spain. An interesting acquaintanceship we must say, and for sure supportive of the common impression of British and their ex-pad communities.

We declined to have dinner at their place, decided against their advice to go for dinner in their favourite bar in the nearby Alcaudette, and instead went to Alcala la Real (or Alcareal) as they called it in broad British accent. It is a nice Moorish town with a big castle and over the weekend, they had had a multi-cultural festival in town so the place was full of the gypsies and other travellers, who performed, played and had a market in the old town. It took us a while to find the newer part of town, and apparently restaurants are not welcome in the old part, but we finally found a place for a great dinner of Spanish specialities. It is definitely recommendable to order deep-fried eggplant with honey if you can find out what is called in Spanish. We didn’t know when we ordered, but it’s a very nice side dish. 

Posted in Excursions, Week3, Week4 |

Tour de Andalucia II: Comares & Herradura

Kasper had (as usual) no problem with getting to sleep whereas I had a few hours in our rather unusual accommodation before I fell asleep. The backdrop of singing zikades and view to multiple shooting stars on the Andalucian sky above was wonderful though, and we woke up the next morning around 9 o’clock ready for a new day. With rumbling tummies, we set direction for the little village of

Comares clinging to a conical hilltop a few kilometres away. After a great breakfast of the usual bocadilla con jamon y queso (excuse my Spanish it means cheese and ham sandwich) we toured the beautiful village a bit and especially enjoyed the view from the cemetery.

The landscapes in the areas are stunning. Mountains and valleys covered in millions of olive trees. The landscape is very dry and colours are restricted to various shades of brown and dark green . It is breathtaking in its own special way and you can’t help wondering how such a dry climate can produce as rich a product as the olives and their oil. Occasionally the dry hills are supplemented with a dried-up riverbed, but it still delivers enough water for big plantations of dark-green citrus trees and avocado-trees. So very different from any other landscape I have travelled through…

Saturday, the plan was to head north and find a B&B, which we had a phone number for. The winding roads of southern Spain and maybe the rather insufficient map lead us on another direction, though, and were far closer to the coast than the inland when we finally found a main road. It became apparent that plans are only there to be changed and we decided to head for the coast and a few hours on a soothing beach. We drove all the way from Malaga to Herradura though very touristy sites on the coast. Took a short break at a local market with knick-knacks and bought a few souvenirs. Kasper also managed to buy a whole kilo of apples for one euro. A bargain even though most of the apples were pretty scrappy. After a good walk around town, we found a little pension in Herradura and checked in late afternoon just in time for a much-needed siesta. We decided for an early dinner by Spanish standards and were lucky to get a table in the first row on a restaurant on the beach. Here we enjoyed our traditional Spanish dishes of garlic prawns in oil, gazpacho and a great paella, while the sun set behind the mountains and the beach around us got dark. Oh well – must admit I became a rather big fan of the Tinto de Verano (red wine with ice and lemon soda) and cerveza con limón (beer with lemonade) so maybe we had just a few of those too…

Posted in Excursions, Week3, Week4 |

Tour de Andalucia I: Nerja & Lake Viñuela

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As some of you might know Nina has come to visit us for a couple of days. Nina and I haven’t had the opportunity this summer to go away on vacation together so we thought that we’d drive around the countryside in Andalucia for a couple of days exploring the small villages.

We headed off today after school and drove off to drop off Jakob at a medium sized village near the beach called Heradura. Here Jakob was going diving. From here we headed off to Nerja which has one of the largest dripstone caves in the world. This was a breathtaking experience. The caves are inimaginably sized with gigantic stalactites and stalagmites contained in five caves as large as 30 m. high and more than 400 m2  each. Both the size of the caves and the dripstones made it hard to believe as “real stuff” and not just some fake tourist attraction made of plastic and expanded polystyrene. But they are very real indeed and have been so for many thousands of years. We were a bit amazed though, that they hadn’t placed reading boards on the making of dripstones and caves like these. We therefore hope that Ninas friend Mie, who is a talented geologist, might want to drop a comment on the makings of this amazing phenomenom… (Hint hint…)

From Nerja we headed off to an area near a big water resevoir in the vicinity of the village Viñuela. The resevoir lies some 20 km. north-east of Malaga and this small trip became somewhat of an adventure with the main theme “Searching-but-finding-nothing”. Our first goal was to find the lake, which proved a bigger challenge than expected. It wasn’t until we drove into one of the highest located villages that we actually found the lake (far away from where we expected it to be). Finding the lake became biggest achievement that day. Our second goal was to drive there because Nina had found some Bed&Breakfasts in some of the small villages. We hadn’t booked anything because we thought it easy to find them by signs on the road or other indications. But we were proved wrong. There might have been (and there might still be) Bed&Breakfast accomodation in the area, but they do not advertise with it. This drove us onto small mountain roads (some paved, and some definitely not…) in our search for ANY accommodation and into the small village of Períana. Here we asked for accommodation in the local supermarket. After having spoken to a friend of the cash-register-girl (in spanglish…) we found out that the nearest place to sleep would probably be to head down to the coast and find a hotel there. We decided to give up on the place-to-stay hunt for a while and in stead find a place to eat dinner. The nice cash-register-girl gave us directions to a restaurant not far away. And so, believing that we had actually run out of bad luck and misplacement, we comitted our final stupidity. We bought 3 muffins, a beer and 2 sodas and were off to find the restaurant. We drove as directed (or as interpreted, anyways…), but we didn’t find a restaurant. After a couple of kms though, we found a sign saying “Finca La Callejona - Restaurante Casero”. Our mood went up. We followed the signs down more narrow mountain roads only to discover that which once had been a restaurant was nowcompletely deserted. The place is best described as one of those pig-on-a-spid party places for charter tourists. Please look at the pictures in the picture section, to get a better view of this strange, but somewhat very beautifull place.

We were a bit tired after the long drive that day and decided to camp for the night on the terrace of this abandomed restaurant. And so we did, after having a magnificient feast consisting of three muffins and a bottle of beer…

Posted in Excursions, Week3, Week4 |

Poeta en Nueva York

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…(or the Poet in New York) is a dance performance running in the gardens of the Alhambra (”Generalife”) until the 31st of August. We went to see this excellent performance the same day that Nina (Kaspers girlfriend) arrived to visit us. It is a flamenco dance performance written and choreographed by the famous spanish coreograph Blanca Li based on the poems of Frederico García Lorca.

The trip was arranged by our school and it was indeed a very astonishing experience. You can find some footage of the performance below (a little something found on the internet).

[flash http://videos.ideal.es/dalealplay.swf?file=1327/PIEZAESTRENOLORCA.flv&]

Posted in Excursions, Week3 |

User log-on requirement disabled…

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We have now disabled the requirement to log on to comment on posts because it seems to malfunction. This means that commenting will now be much easier.

Posted in General, Week3 | 9 Comments

Aplujarras IV: Capaleira

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The last village on our excursion was a very hot stop. Eventhough it is high up in the mountains the heat was emmense. Capaleira is situated in the same valley as Pampaneira but much higher and on the pictures it is clear that the village produces a very picturesque environment.

The picture speaks for themselves but notice the 

Posted in Excursions, Week2 | 2 Comments

Alpujarras III: Trevélez

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A 45 minutes drive on narrow mountain roads later we arrived at Trevélez. This small village is often said to be the highest village in Spain, elevated 1476 m. above the ocean, and being so is often used as an offset for mountaneers venturing off into the Sierra Nevada.

Our first goal in Trevélez was lunch. We ate at a restaurant, surprisingly capable of handling the horde of tourists arriving at the village. We had a pork soup of some sort (strange taste) with serrano ham, and a pork chop served with potatoes and… serrano ham. Around the table all courses (except desert and coffee…) were actually served with serrano ham. This is not normal for Spain, and by such one could wonder why this was so. Apart from its elevation, Trevélez, is even more known for producing the best Jamón de Serano (Serrano Ham) in Spain, which might explain the excessive use of serrano ham.

Very appropriately our next goal was to see how the serrano ham is produced in Trevélez and to discover the “Secret of the Ham” as we came to call it. For this we got admission to to a production facility. To get a visual impression of this, please go to the picture section. The ham is produced in 3 main steps:

  1. Initially the ham is cured (salted) for 10 days in a big fridge. This is done by laying out a layer of salt, a layer of ham, a layer of salt etc. This process drives the water from the ham, and prevents it from rotting in the later processes.
  2. After the curing, the ham is watered to get rid of most of the salt and the ham is hung in another fridge to dry. We didn’t get actually for how long the ham is hanging in this fridge…
  3. It’s at the final stage of the process that we find the secret of the famous Trevélez ham. Here the ham is hung in temperate rooms, like any other serrano ham. The secret is that they actually ventilate with the fresh mountain air, which is said to produce the special taste that the Trevélez ham is reknown for. We went into two such rooms - very big rooms to be specific, resembling large butcher halls - with endless rows of ham hanging from the ceiling. We have never seen so much meat in one place before. How inviting it might sound the ham is hung in these rooms for 6 months to 2 years depending on how dark and strong the desired taste should be.

The smell in this meat factory was pretty peculiar, which is why we were releived when we finally got outside and got up into the bus heading off to our final destination: Capileira.

Posted in Excursions, Week2 |