Arriving at South America`s biggest hub for tourists was somewhat a shock but also a nice welcome after the sporadic structure of Bolivia. It is easy to see that even though poor, Peru still has better conditions and is better developed than Bolivia. It is not a big difference but small things as better building materials and better roads are noticeable.
Arriving in Cuzco late at night did not make the biggest difference and I quickly found a hostel to stay for the night. The next day started late at around 0900 by finding the best place to eat breakfast. Still being with the two British girls we went together to a place they knew and had a breakfast worthy of kings and queens. After this we went discovering the city and asked around for some good trekking to Machu Picchu. The girls found a trek the next day, I decided to wait a day extra to get it all figured out. Not only with the trekking but also what to do with the last two weeks of my travelling. I went to a Danish cafe called The Film which I had heard about from a Danish couple that I met in San Pedro de Atacama. It was very cosy and the owner, a Danish girl named Dorthe, treated me with a good coffee and a tasty piece of chocolate cake. I hanged around for a few hours and then went exploring some more.
The following morning I decided to do a trek called “Inca Jungle” which would set out two days after. I had said my goodbyes to Rachel and Laura that same night as they went on their trek, and now I felt like it was time for something new. I love meeting new people all the time and truth be told it is hard to meet new people when you travel together. For me the people make up for 50% of the experience and so i was looking forward to seeing some new faces. The trek was a 3 nights/4 days excursion and the first day we spend 3 hours arriving at our destination; at the top of a mountain. From here we speeding down the mountain on mountain bikes, it was fun but also a bit lunatic as the condition of the bikes was a joke. I had a puncture, three times my saddle fell of and I could barely use any force pedalling due to the teeth of the cog wheel barely had the same function as the teeth of an 90 year old women. The gears hardly worked and the inner part of the back wheel gave out a weird noise while having the shape of a calf kneed sheepdog. I survived and as I have started noticing; nothing can be so bad you can not laugh about it and often it made for even a better experience.
The group I was with consisted of 7 Belgian guys and one French girl. The practically spoke french all the time but they were kind all of them and tried to enroll me in some of the discussions. I had fun anyways and after living with my French friend, Damien, in Santiago i could pick up must of the topics they were talking about. The first evening passed in a very humble hostel in the mountain village of Santa Teresa. I got bitten more than 15times that night…. I really do not like mosquitoes but they seem to have an amazing lust for the viking gringo!
The second day we headed out very, very early and I was in for the biggest challenge of my trip yet. The trekking we set out for was not at a level I would ever had thought would be a problem. I underestimated one thing; the altitude. Being in 3000 meters is alright for slowly walking around and you can even do a small hill or two without dying. Doing an Inca Trail which an elevation of 1000 in the first three hours was another thing. I literally nearly died of exhaustion. Here comes the pathetically explanation; and yes it will contain some basic science, some medical excuses and some pure pathetic complaining. The amount of oxygen in the air here is not big and when your lungs are not used to this it totally drains you of energy besides not being able to breathe. One week before i had been diagnosed having bronchitis and was running around with my newly bought inhalator. The bloody thing did not seem to help but maybe i should have totally left the cigarettes in Bolivia. Many people have a hard time dealing with the altitudes and being fit, or smoking, does not have anything to do with it…. they say! Not everyone can absorb they required amount of oxygen, but when seeing one of the locals literally running up the hill with a damn goat on his back, I was ready to turn back. Shear stubbornness made me continue and after the three hours the trail flattened more and I could enjoy the amazing view without sounding like a damn fog horn. We were walking on paths the Chechuan people had used to arrive at the famous Inca city over 500 years ago. The trail was narrow and only left 30cm to walk upon with a mind dropping 100 - 300 meters of clear drop to the left of you. It was amazing! We arrived after 7 hours at some natural hot springs, and that swinm is one of the best i have ever experienced. We even had a cold beer after and went to sleep in the nearby village.
The third day we set out walking again but this time much more easy. We started from a train stop called Hydroelectrica and followed the railroad all the way through the jungle to the city of Aguas Calientes which is situated at the base of Machu Picchu. The scenery in it self mademe think of the movie”Stand By Me”, the objective being the forgotten city of the Incas but the close friends i was lacking. By midday we arrived at A.C. and after lunch the group went up to a viewpoint to take photos. I passed and stayed relaxing in the city. I could not see myself climbing 1 1/2 hour, elevating 650 meters… the mere thought did not comprehend in my brain. Energy lack is an experience but you have to tell yourself it can not put you down mentally. When you see everyone else doing it, even people not as fit as you it can be hard! I had a good rest so as I was ready for the next morning.
We got out of bed at 0400 ot make sure we had an early start. We started the climb to Machu Picchu at 0445 and in the beginning I was doing well. Then started the wheezing and thenthe panting. I sounded like a old train and quickly fell behind. Again… this mountain should not beat me! I did it an arrived only 10min after the others. I rule!
Machu Picchu is basically not a sight i am able to explain. I could give you a lot of facts and theories about the place but the bare truth is that no one really knows what it was made for. A school for the clever students of the Chechuan? or a sanctuary for all the clever minds of South America? No one knows but the place is magical and beyond comprehension. I will add one thing though. Most people will claim that it was discovered by an American dude called Hiram Bingham, and most of the texts you will read about him will state that he was guided there by a Peruvian peasant. If he was guided how can he be the first? The peasant named Melchor Arteaga had found the city by accident years before and was only showing Señor Bingham the way. I can ask you to look at my pictures, do some research and come up with your own explanation but the only thing i can recommend is to go there and see it for yourself. Fighting to get there makes it even more amazing and getting there in the morning (very very early) is essential as 1,500 - 2,000 tourists go there every day.
Happy travelling!
